Robyn Wilkie takes us on an extraordinary travel odyssey to the untamed spirit of South Island — a realm where adventure and the beauty of nature converge to create an unforgettable experience on horseback.

After the storm hit and the river died, Tanya Hawthorne and I headed off on a much-planned horseback riding adventure to the South Island. The plan was to ride our horses at Saint James Station near Hanmer Springs. I had been to Hanmer 30 years ago and had been oblivious to the open spaces of the Saint James and Molesworth areas, so I had passed through with a nonchalant shrug. The pools  at Hanmer were nicer then and a lot cheaper than they are now at $38 per person.

Due to Cyclone Gabrielle, we had to drive the long way from Gisborne. We du