Unravel the allure of Golden Bay’s picturesque landscapes and culinary treasures through the eyes of Mike Yardley, who offers a glimpse into this captivating corner of New Zealand.
Maybe it’s a quirk of nature or God’s sense of humour, but isn’t it uncanny how the very tip of the South Island is shaped like the beak of a kiwi? In fact, the entire landmass north of Collingwood resembles the head and body of a kiwi.
Remote and wind-blasted, Farewell Spit is a sweeping 30km-long sliver of sand that arcs east, buffering Golden Bay from the Tasman Sea. If you’ve never done it before, check out this singular environment by hopping on board a Farewell Spit Eco Tour, for a six-hour journey of discovery from Collingwood.
Intersecting with the spit, the shallow waters of Golden Bay are a death trap for whales. At low tide, the spit is aproned by vast gleaming mud flats, a halfway hotel for flocks of shore birds and migratory waders from as far as the Arctic Circle, like the bar-tailed godwit. You’ll see colonies of gannet, heron, dainty oystercatchers, playful little blue penguins and a plethora of seals, snoozing in the sun.
Fossil Point is a fascinating stopover, where old fossils are embedded in the multi-coloured sedimentary rock face, a totem to the Jurassic age when dinosaurs roamed these parts. A 30km drive along the sugar-white sand brings us to Farewell Spit lighthouse. The historic structure, New Zealand’s only steel latticework lighthouse, was built in 1897 to replace the earlier wooden building.
A highlight on the return run down the beach, flanked by the crashing breakers of the Tasman, was the chance to scale one of the towering sand dunes, stacked as high as 30 metres. Also on the home run, we took a short diversion through hilly Puponga farmland to reach the northernmost tip of the South Island, majestic Cape Farewell. Crowned with a delightful ocean arch, this is the South Island’s stupendous hole in the rock.
Just west of Farewell Spit, Wharariki Beach is one of the region’s most prized photogenic spots. Stroll through the hilly pasture to reach the sculpted white sand dunes and stroll down the beach. It’s unsafe for swimming, but the rock formations and the two archway islands spell Instagram gold.
From Takaka, take a journey on Abel Tasman Drive to bask in the shoreline of Golden Bay. First up is the crowd-favourite beach of Pohara, before Ligar Bay, Tata Beach and the vast golden carpet of Wainui Bay join the procession.
Just 7km north of Tākaka, one of Golden Bay’s most beautiful taonga. Te Waikoropupū Springs, informally called Pupū Springs, are New Zealand’s largest freshwater springs and the largest coldwater springs in the Southern Hemisphere. Feast your eyes on the clearest water you’ve ever seen, bubbling out of the earth at 14,000 litres per second, dancing with light to create shimmering turquoise hues.
The region brims with hospitality, character and personality. The retail scene is distinctive in its own right, a hotbed of hippies, eccentrics and creative artisans with more potters and candle-makers than you can shake a candlestick at.
When in Collingwood, I highly recommend the oversized ice-cream sundaes from the Collingwood Tavern. And you couldn’t find a more cutesy café than the Courthouse Cafe. Built in 1901, the courthouse operated for decades on the back of the gold boom, before passing into private ownership in the 1960s. The menu is expansive, but you can’t go wrong with their mussel chowder and sourdough bread.
Halfway between Takaka and Collingwood, a signature experience is The Mussel Inn. Built just over 30 years ago by the Dixon family, there’s a woolshed-cum-farmhouse vibe to the Mussel Inn — rustic and homely. It’s famous for its fresh steamed mussels and mussel chowder, but the menu spans steak, fish and vegetarian options too. They also produce their own craft beers, ales, ciders and soft drinks. If you’re the designated driver, you’ll love their homemade lemonade and ginger beer.
Speaking of libations, make tracks to Kiwi Spirit Distillery on Abel Tasman Drive. Treat yourself to some delicious tastings of their whisky, gin, vodka, and enticing range of liqueurs. (Tangelo liqueur was my favourite.) If gin is your thing, try their classic dry Championz Gin, and their earthy Greenstone Gin made with tōtara and kahikatea berries. Relax in the sun under the wisteria-covered pergola and breeze your way through a selection of their tasting cocktails. What a way to toast Golden Bay.
The Booking.com APAC Travel Confidence Index reveals that 63 percent of Kiwis prioritise food and dining experiences when travelling, while 68 percent seek breathtaking and unforgettable landscapes. Golden Bay ticks all those boxes.
I stayed at Summerspring Beachfront Accommodation, just north of Takaka, in Rangihaeata. This pet-friendly property is a true gem, where you can escape the madding crowd to enjoy your own slice of absolute beachfront paradise in Golden Bay. My apartment was generously equipped with full kitchen facilities, SKY TV, 2 double bedrooms, a spacious living area and an outdoor dining area. Offering accommodation, bookable attractions and car hires, Booking.com takes the stress out of travelling all on one platform. www.booking.com