Spirit of Sarajevo

Mike Yardley’s journey through Sarajevo reveals a city’s resilience against the backdrop of the breathtaking Balkans.

The Balkans are a compelling, battle-hardened pocket of Southeastern Europe, fractured by epic conflicts over the ages. But Sarajevo has seen it all. Just 30 years ago, as Tito’s Yugoslavia fell part, so did basic humanity. Sarajevo found itself trapped in the longest siege of any city in modern history, during which Serb forces, underpinned by the brute strength of the former Yugoslav army, rained fury down on a defenceless city from the wrap-around mountains. This was vividly brought to life, with raw and authentic local context, on my riveting two week-long Balkan Adventures Trafalgar Tour. It’s the bullet holes you first notice, when arriving in Sarajevo. Buildings hit by mortar shells still bear those scars, like the weeping wounds of war. Another constant are the Sarajevo Roses, 200 petal-shaped craters in the pavement caused by shelling, which were embalmed in red resin as urban memorials, where at least three people were killed.

My grippingly compelling Trafalgar local specialist, Samra, remarked that dealing to the building scars is still a low priority for the city. 60 percent of Sarajevo’s buildings were destroyed in the siege.  Our hotel was located in the heart of “snipers’ alley”, where building after building still sports battle wounds.  It was on our way to the Tunnel of Hope, snaking underneath Sarajevo Airport, that Samra soberly remarked how her father is still “missing”. Like many other Bosniaks, he was most likely a victim of ethnic-cleansing and consigned to a mass-grave. A friend of Samra’s was notified last month that two of her missing uncle’s bones had just been positively DNA-identified from a mass-grave.

A stand-out Sarajevo experience is to encounter the Tunnel of Hope. Furtively built under the airport runway during the city’s siege, it took more than six months to dig this 900 metre long tunnel, providing the only connection with the outside world. Just over a metre wide and 1.5 metres in height, this secret corridor enabled the beleaguered city to secretly regain access to telephone lines, food, weaponry and oil supplies. It was never discovered by Serb forces. Outside the tunnel, a gallery of grim black and white photos starkly portray Sarajevo’s bleakest days.

It seems so perverse that so much brutality ran riot amid such spectacular natural beauty. Sarajevo’s geography is dramatic, wedged inside a long, thin valley, flanked by forested mountains, on all sides. Dubbed the Jerusalem of Europe, it’s an enthralling melting-pot of faith, where the call to prayer serenades the old town, while church bells ring out from Sacred Heart Cathedral.

The labyrinthine old quarter at the heart of Sarajevo, Bascarsija, is a delight to stroll through. Gazi Husrev-Bey’s awe-inspiring mosque is a city emblem. Built in the 16th century, it’s the largest Ottoman mosque in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Significantly damaged in the war, it’s triumphant restoration is a major badge of honour. When the Austro-Hungarians took over in the late 19th century, they used Sarajevo as a testing place for modern innovations. The mosque became the first in the world to be electrified.

We passed by the Latin Bridge, which crosses the Miljacka River, close to the old town. You can stand on the spot where the heir to Hapsburg throne, Archduke Franz Ferdinand, was assassinated by an 18-year-old Serbian, as his motorcade drove by. Not only did it spark World War I, but it spelt the end of the Austro-Hungarian and Ottoman empires. Sarajevo’s old quarter still exudes the timeless atmos of an Ottoman bazaar. Many of the single-storey market shops date back to the 16th and 17th century, as does the wooden Sebilj fountain. I loved watching grizzled old chaps play their trade as coppersmiths.

Bascarsija is the ideal place to heartily graze on the classic tastes of Sarajevo. Cevapi is a beloved staple, grilled necklaces of meat, typically stuffed in pita bread with onions. Head to the only preserved Ottoman-era caravanserai in Sarajevo, Morica Inn. Built in 1551, it was able to accommodate up to 300 guests and 70 horses. Nowadays, it houses a gorgeous Persian carpet shop and the richly decorated central courtyard is an evocative setting to drink and eat. Sarajevo’s story has borne witness to so much terror. But there is a strong sense of dignity, resilience, and an indomitable spirit in this profoundly remarkable Balkan city.

Trafalgar’s amazing Balkan Adventure is a 14 day tour, spanning seven countries and 13 cities. For 2024 tour dates, prices start from $5,895 per person, twin share. www.trafalgar.com/en-nz/tours/balkan-adventure